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The Best E-Bikes Under $2,000 Make Easy Pedaling More Affordable
An e-bike will help you pedal farther, and these picks will do the same for your dollars.
Whether you’re a casual weekend joyrider or a dedicated daily commuter, switching to an electric bike is a game changer. A little pedal assistance can greatly extend how far you can easily ride, and how fast you can get from point A to point B. Sure, there are traditionalists who are in it for the exertion and prefer a classic bike, but there’s no denying that an e-bike can greatly expand your bicycleable horizons.
An e-bike is a big purchase–the best of the best can cost more than $3,000–but you don’t have to spend that much to get a great one. Some of the best electric bikes cost less than $2,000: You just need to know how to find them.
The Best Cheap Electric Bikes
- Best Overall: Rad Power RadCity 5 Plus
- Best Entry Level: Ride1Up Roadster V2
- Best Single-Speed: Juiced RipRacer
- Best Cargo: Lectric Xpedition Cargo Bike
- Best Style: Linus Bikes Cesta 500
- Best Class 3: Aventon Level.2
- Best Cruiser: Juiced CrossCurrent X Step-Through
- Best Folding: Lectric XP 3.0
The Expert: I’ve spent 30 years cycling in every way possible, from daily commuting to extreme mountain biking. I’ve reviewed bikes, along with other outdoor and fitness gear, for the likes of Runner’s World, Popular Science, Thrillist, and The Manual, among others. For that work, I regularly test electric bikes from top brands and plenty of lesser-known manufacturers to make sure I know everything that’s going on in the world of e-bikes.
What to Consider While Shopping For an E-Bike
Picking out an e-bike can get a little more involved than buying a traditional bike. There are more mechanical parts on an e-bike–like a motor–and additional considerations around weight and power. The details can get technical, but you should be able to make a definitive choice without getting overwhelmed. That said, we’re here to walk you through the process and help make things easier.
Bike Class
Electric bikes are broken into three “classes” that are designated based on speed and throttle capabilities. In most states, this may determine where you can and can’t ride. Here’s how it works:
- Class 1: Pedal-assist only, with a maximum assisted speed of 20 MPH. You can ride anywhere you’d take a standard bicycle.
- Class 2: Self-pedaling with a push-button start and a throttle. Also capable of pedal-assistance up to a maximum speed of 20 MPH. Typically allowed on any biking infrastructure, though some parks don’t allow them. Make sure to check the signs at trailheads.
- Class 3: Any bike with a higher, 28 MPH maximum speed. Most current class 3 bikes are pedal-assist only, but some may come with a throttle. Given the extra power, they are often restricted from bike paths, much like motorcycles or mopeds.
Class 1 e-bikes are pretty rare these days, and usually limited to the cheapest of the cheap. A Class 2 is the way to go if you expect to ride on trails alongside classic bikes. Commuters and dedicated cyclists often prefer Class 3 bikes, since they provide that extra oomph to help you through daily commutes and busy traffic conditions. That said, You should check your state and city laws and verify what is and isn’t allowed in your area, especially if you’re thinking about getting a Class 3.
Motors
E-bikes are allowed to have motors capable of producing up to 1 horsepower, or 750 watts (W). As a result, e-bike motors typically have a maximum power between 250-750 watts. Bikes with larger motors provide more torque, which increases their acceleration and allows them to climb steeper hills.
Most e-bikes in our sub-$2,000 price range have rear hub-drive motors, which – as the name suggests – are located in the rear wheel’s hub. These motors are more affordable, and help distribute the bike’s weight evenly. With better balance, you also get improved traction, which is useful for riding over gravel or potentially slick surfaces.
More expensive bikes may have mid-drive motors, which are located in the pedal crank. Mid-drive motors usually offer better performance and torque, which explains why they’re reserved for more expensive bikes.
We always look for e-bikes that have received a UL Certification, which indicates that the electrical components, including the motor and battery, have been tested and meet an independently set safety standard.
Batteries
There are two things to look at when you check out an e-bike’s battery:
- Mounting: Batteries can either be integrated into the frame or mounted externally. There are pros and cons to both designs. An integrated battery helps maintain a sleek presentation, but they often cost more and cannot be removed for convenient charging. Externally mounted batteries don’t necessarily look as streamlined, but they typically cost less and they can usually be removed for easy charging.
- Capacity: Within our price range, most e-bike batteries can store 250- to 750-watt-hours (Wh) of power. A smaller battery will reduce your bike’s weight, but larger batteries provide greater range with consistent pedal assistance. Manufacturers typically provide an estimated maximum range for their e-bikes – often around 40 miles – which is measured using the lowest level of motor assist. Battery life can vary quite a bit based on a variety of factors, so I do not recommend testing the limits of that range.
Frames
Most of the e-bikes in our guide have a lightweight aluminum frame. While competitive cyclists seeking performance may find them stiff, the average rider is going to have a perfectly good time riding one. Frames almost always come in one of two styles.
The straight-barred road bike frame, which tends to be lighter and more durable, is often associated with high-performance bikes.
The step-through frame, which you most commonly find on beach cruisers and cargo bikes, sits lower to the ground. The shape is easier to mount and optimized for comfort. A growing number of e-bikes are offered in both straight-bar and step-through formats.
Each frame offers opportunities for different features. A classic frame can hold an attachable central bag or air pump, for example, while a step-through can be equipped with a larger central storage console or cupholder.
Components and Special Features
As with regular bicycles, e-bike components can vary in quality depending on considerations like costs and performance requirements. Most of the bikes below feature value-oriented components like shifters, drivetrains, brakes, and tires that will get the job done at a lower price point.
A growing number of brands also offer customization via accessories like cargo and passenger carriers, safety and security devices, and holsters for a water bottle or your phone. These features may drive up the cost of the bike, but you can always pass on them at first and add them later.
How We Selected The Best Cheap Electric Bikes
To select the best cheap electric bikes, I consulted with the test team from Bicycling, which recommended a set of bikes based on its extensive e-bike testing. In addition, I’ve also tested my own fair share of e-bikes at every price point. After comparing notes, I selected bikes from a wide range of brands to all kinds of budget-conscious riders.
Nick Hilden is a writer, globetrotter, and jack-of-many-talents who has written gear reviews for the likes of Runner’s World, Popular Science, Men’s Health, Thrillist, the Daily Beast, the Los Angeles Times, Greatist, and the Manual, and his lifestyle, culture, and tech writing has also appeared in Scientific American, Afar, Salon, Vice, Healthline, and many others. Before entering journalism some 15 years ago, he worked as a bartender, brewery manager, sound engineer, recording and touring musician, cook, teacher, and in a variety of other trades. These days, he lives all over the world, performs music sporadically, and spends a lot of time thinking how to best improve his Honda Element conversion.
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